Monthly Archives: September 2014

World Climbing Championship Gijón 2014

Such is the nature of competitions that once again the best men and women won,  but there was much more to it at a tense, exciting and inspirational climbing IFSC World Championship held in Gijón in northern Spain last weekend. The World Championships which were in Asturias in northern Spain for the 2nd time featured Speed Climbing, Para-Climbing and Lead Climbing were well attended throughout. And although some felt there was a slight lack of competitors in the main categories due to scheduling between boulder comps there was strong field and the finals had most of the big names.

And although a partisan crowd on Sunday didn´t see their favourite, the diminutive powerhouse Ramonet, win, an equally vociferous (though smaller crowd) on Saturday did see their new hero, Urko Carmona, crowned world champion in his para-climbing class as the last act of a long and inspiring day.

Urko in action

Urko in action

Interestingly, the Speed climbing, though it was the first time it had been in Spain was over with early on with the Para Climbing taking pride of place on the weekend. Speed climbing was on Friday and this was the first time any Speed Climbing had been seen in Spain meaning that mouths hung open as the crowd realised what speed in climbing actually meant. The world record, recently broken, fell again in the men´s final as the Ukranian, Danylo Boldyrev, overcame the Russian challenge (things to come?) to take 1st. The womens’ went to form with the strong Russian Alina Gaidamakina beating two Poles and keeping it pretty much an eastern Bloc muscle –fest!

So Saturday instead was Para-Climbing and in many ways the para day proved the highlight of the competition especially because the large mainly Spanish crowd got the see their man win. A long and tiring day in hot conditions took it out of the climbers but the reaction and size of the crowd made it an event to remember for most and there were several stand-out performances that really raised the bar (and roof).  Fran Brown cemented her place at the top table with a very close win, adding a world masters to her current world champion status on the last hold; Koichiro Kobayashi the Japanese climbing brilliantly in the B1 category (visually impaired); and Urko sealing an emotional day with his top out in the amputee class.

Urko’s win provided the proof that Para Climbing can sit of the same stage and be equally thrilling as any other category. Hearing the crowd chanting Urko’s name signalled that they were 100% in accord with the competition and not in a way that suggested platitudes: this was a climbing comp and they wanted to be part of his win!!

This was a very well-attended event, with para-climbers from as far afield as Iran, Japan and the USA, being exciting and inspirational in equal measure. And with a bit of bias it was great to see the British team do so well.  A big team went and managed to claim  6 top three placings – a testament not only to their dedication but to the work put in by the BMC in making sure their cause is pushed so that para-climbing gets the same status and ‘game-time’ as the able bodied version.  In the end the full British team results were: Alex & Phil 6th & Adam 7th,  Dave 4th , Fran 1st , Sianagh 3rd, Nick 2nd , John 3rd , Esme 3rd  & Reanne 2nd. A brilliant set of results and Wild Country is very proud to have been able to support this talented bunch.

The GB Para Team

The GB Para Team

Finally came the lead comp and a big crowd braved an enormous thunderstorm to pack the pavilion. The women’s competition seemed close at first as height was gained incrementally, climber by climber, but no-one seemed to have the key to the 8b climb. But then out strode Jain Kim, the final competitor,  and with a precision, fluidity and strength unseen so far she simply blew everyone else out of the water; topping out in a style that had everyone in the crowd on their feet.

In the Men’s final it seemed as though everyone was waiting for the stars and although the competition was fierce it wasn’t until the last two appeared that things really hotted up. A partisan crowd were obviously all for Ramonet but this didn’t mean they were exactly anti-Ondra and his smooth ascent past Scahi Ammi’s high-point to latch-and-leap from the penultimate hold brought cheers from the crowd. Cheers which then turned to roars as Ramonet stepped up.  His contrasting ‘locky’ style seemed initially at odds with the route yet as he edged higher the unbelievable athleticism of the tiny figure became obvious and, making it look easier than anyone, he looked destined for the triumph the event fervently wished for.
Yet at the same high point as Ondra his trajectory changed, and unlike the formers leap to claim his ‘plus’ the Spaniard found himself on the end of the rope without having persuaded the judges he had the same control as Ondra, leaving an emotional Adam as double world champion!

Ramonet in action

Ramonet in action

You can watch the finals here http://bit.ly/WorldCupMen_Women

The highlight for me, however, wasn’t the climbing, but what the climbing did. It was brilliant listening and talking to climbers who were exiting the para event, quite obviously inspired, and hearing them discuss training and how they could try to utilise the skills of para climbers to learn to climb better (training with one arm, one leg, blindfolded) rather than mouthing platitudes of sympathy or a ‘oh didn´t they do well’ attitude.

Climbers inspiring climbers – the true meaning of a World Championship!

 

On the podium

On the podium

First new route at Quirós – Chorerra Negra, 7a+

Returning to Quirós after a break from climbing was a treat for me for a number of reasons; firstly I completed my project, secondly I warmed up on a route which felt pumpy as hell on the last visit and finally I had the same feeling repeating a route as the first time – which is rare.

There are some places I just love to climb and Sector Eclipse at Quiros is one of them. Now I don’t understand why, but this is a sector ignored by most and I have  hardly ever seen anyone there, though there often chalk…

However, for me it has a great mix of routes, there’s a decent spread of grades and possibly the best 6c+ in Asturias. (Controversial!!!) And one more thing I should mention, it also gets into the shade at around 1.30, a blessing for a keen climber in the summer months.

Amanita 6c+

Amanita 6c+

So on my first of two quick visits I warmed up on Amanita 6c+, a really good (and long) route which takes a burly crack for fully 35 metres. I had done it a few years ago and it was certainly easier the second time – there’s big moves, finger jams and intricate slabs and was happy that I felt solid all the way.

I was happy because I’d returned to finish a route I’d bolted about two years ago – called Chorrera Negra I’d tentatively graded it 7a and put it in the guide even though I’d not had time to complete it. I’d had the time after bolting to top rope it and although very tired had just about done it in one go. So although I thought it may be tricky since I was feeling good I thought I’d just whip up it quickly and get it ticked.

On the crux of Chorerra Negra 7a+ on the first ascent

On the crux of Chorerra Negra 7a+ on the first ascent

However, I hadn’t counted on the fact that A. I hadn’t cleaned it brilliantly and the intervening 1.5 years would leave it worse. And B. it was pretty badly bolted with spaced bolts meaning you had to do hard moves above them and C. it was bloody hard!!!

Up, down, up down, I got pumped and more pumped. – feet on nothing much, dirty hand holds and fear keeping me down. Finally I committed and managed to push on – brutal – but a decent crimp got me clipped and a carried on. Phew, crux done! I didn’t remember anything else hard until the last few feet so felt a bit happier. But, I was once again subject to memory failings as almost isntantly the territory became thin, precarious and very, very unobvious. Sketch by sketch I advanced and slowly but surely i was going to be mine. By the end I was totally pumped with cramping feet and it was will power nothing more (and the threat of having to come back) which got me up it.

Very relieved I snagged the belay and lowered off pleased as punch but damn tired.  I was very proud of my route and my determined effort, whilst acknowledging it’s failings and vowing to come back and clean and add a bolt or two to my ordeal.

High on the route and very tired

High on the route and very tired

So overall, maybe my first new route on the Queen of Asturian crags isn’t the greatest but it’s intricate and fun (in an old school way). I upgraded Chorrera Negra to 7a+, I am going back soon to ‘sort it out’.

The Vuelta 2014

On Monday the Vuelta de España passed within a few hundred metres of Casa Quirós, so naturally we walked down the hill to watch the peleton fly by. It would be rude not to, right?

To put the local road-biking terrain into perspective for you, this stage of the Vuelta was the ‘reina etapa’; or ‘queen stage’. That is to say, the potentially decisive one; the hardest and hilliest of the entire tour (not one where the riders dress in drag ;-) ) By the time they passed the bottom of our road the riders had already completed 3 mountain passes and still had 2 more to go.

They certainly deserved some cheering on and our neighbours were in fine voice to do so. However, as they urged on the mid-field stragglers, some 5 minutes behind the leaders at this point, with cries of ‘You’re right with them, keep it going,’ our 4 year-old son piped up in equally loud voice: ‘No you’re not. You’re miles behind!’ Ah, the honesty of small children…..

If you want to see the whole stage you can watch it here:

http://www.rtve.es/alacarta/videos/vuelta-ciclista-a-espana/vuelta-ciclista-espana-2014-16-etapa-san-martin-rey-aurelio-farrapone-lsomiedo/2745889/

 

Ready for the Big Reveal?

Well, no….not quite yet. But very, very nearly. We are currently putting the finishing touches to Casa Quiros and it’s starting to look really rather beautiful, even if we do say so ourselves. *Puffs chest proudly* Please indulge a little preening, it’s been a tough road to get here. There’s been a lot of this:

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Followed by a lot of this (the tricky part: putting it back together again…the stuff you need the professionals for)

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It’s been out with the old wibbly-wobbly drunken floor and in with an artfully finished and soberly level solid oak one. A sad goodbye to the beautiful, antique but sadly cracked kitchen floor tiles, followed by a cheery ‘hola’ to some glorious authentic artisan-crafted cement-tile reproductions hunted down relentlessly online and shipped at great expense from southern Spain. Worth it to respect the character of this most authentic and charming of traditional Asturian cottages.

We’ve insulated throughout as we’ve gone, natch, and the windows are all new and double-glazed, of course, but they are wooden and complete with the locally typical shutters. The hot water is instant and gas-fuelled but there is a wood-burning stove for when you have the time and inclination to cosy up indoors. Or if the weather’s just too warm to even consider that, you can always just stick some wood on the barbie and chill out in the garden or in the comfortable shade of the porch, with its drinks fridge and outdoor kitchen area.

What can I say? We know you’re really going to love it. So watch this space for photos of the finished product coming soon. Or go one better and book yourself a visit. Special early bird promotional prices available now!

Contact us: info@casaquiros.co.uk or telephone/whatsapp to: +34 669738192 / +34 665093992